Written by:
Monday, February 20, 2012 

Ornamental Plant of the Week
February 20, 2012

Bandana Series Lantanas

from Allen Owings

The Bandana series of lantanas from Syngenta Flowers have been out for a few years now. These are nice plants and offer new options in selection of lantanas for commercial and residential landscapes. A few new colors in lantana flowers are available in the Bandanas. In addition, the growth habit is restrained and mounding making for an attractive appearance. Cultivars include Cherry, Cherry Sunrise, Orange Sunrise, Trailing Gold, Red, Rose, Peach, Light Yellow and Lemon Zest. Lantanas need full sun and limited irrigation.



 

FURTHER ARTICLES

One Night of Freezing Temperatures
Nursery Crop Outlook – 2012 
Peonies in Monroe 
Azalea Cultural Practices and Landscape Information
Sustainable Landscape News Articles 
 

One Night of Freezing Temperatures
from Allen Owings

The main thing to remember is we had a significant period of non-freezing weather and unseasonably warm temperatures prior this freeze. At the Hammond weather reporting station, for instance, the last freeze prior to February 12th was 27 degrees on January 16th – a good month.

Many late winter and early spring flowering plants area about three weeks ahead of schedule in terms of spring growth and flowering (see related sustainable landscape news link later in this email update). It is very common to see foliage discoloration, flower discoloration and similar cold damaged symptoms on these plants due to the recent cold event. Turfgrass also has been adversely affected with lawns that were 75% green now browned by the frost and freeze.

Nursery Crop Outlook – 2012
from Roger Hinson and Allen Owings

National Situation and Outlook
 

ECONOMIC CONDITIONS play an oversized role in the health of the ornamental plants industry. Some important items are summarized below.
 

Housing: New house sales in 2011 were lowest since 1963, at just more than 300,000, but the rate in the South was strongest among regions (up12.9 %). Competition from distressed houses on the existing-homes market has further depressed price. The latest S&P/Case-Shiller composite housing price index was lower by 0.7 % year-over year. Low mortgage interest rates provide support for both new and existing home sales.

Jobs and unemployment: Unemployment fell to 8.3 % in January, lowest since February 2009 for the 5th consecutive monthly decline, even though more people re-entered the job market. New unemployment claims were lower. About 352,000 people filed new claims in the last week in January, the lowest number since the week ending April 19, 2008 (U. S. Labor Department). Weekly initial jobless claims below 400,000 typically signal an improving labor market.

Spending and Consumption: Consumer spending during 2011 holiday season was up from 2010 by about 4% on heavy price discounting. Consumer confidence is increasing, according to the Conference Board Consumer Confidence Index®. Household income rose in December, but consumer spending was flat. Reports indicate cautious optimism that rising wages (up about 0.5 %) will support demand. Gross domestic product increased to an annual rate of 2.8 % for the October to December 2011 quarter, a big jump and a positive sign for the direction of the economy.

Oil: U. S. consumption is lower because of the slow economic recovery and more efficient vehicles, but other countries‟ demands are higher. Most forecasts suggest rising prices.

SUSTAINABILITY. Nursery and greenhouse facilities are high input systems. Consumers increasingly demand environmental sustainability, and many retailers across channels use an array of requirements in purchasing guidelines to demonstrate their „green‟ credentials. Federal policies to reduce carbon emissions support this direction. One form in which these appear is research on and efforts to use biodegradable containers as a substitute for plastic. Generally, strategies to reduce expense and benefit the environment are priorities.

LABOR. Labor availability at rates that allow profitability is important to the industry. The issue of illegal workers remains contentious. Growers‟ concern is that reform or stricter enforcement of current law may increase labor cost by reducing supply. In the long term, the labor issue may lead to increased efforts to mechanize. In ornamental plant production, some mechanization has occurred but hand labor is a primary input.

Mechanization is difficult because it is hard to replicate the skill and care of the hand. Suggestions for reform, and there are many at both the state and federal level, differ widely in their impact on agricultural labor, and there seems to be no consensus about how to handle this issue.

Louisiana Situation and Outlook

Wholesale production of nursery crops rebounded in terms of sales and inventory in 2011. This reversed the decline seen statewide, most notably in 2010 and 2011. It is anticipated that sales in 2012 will continue to marginally improve. Nursery growers have eliminated over-grown, unsalable inventory and demand for liners seems to indicate increased production in terms of 2012 sales leads.

Woody Ornamentals: Woody ornamentals account for the vast majority of the wholesale farm-gate value of commercial nursery crops in Louisiana. LSU AgCenter estimates place the wholesale value of woody ornamental sales in Louisiana at about $95 million in 2011. A recovery from the sales declines of the last 2-3 years has begun to occur. Growers are more optimistic for 2012. Container-production acreage has decreased in some areas of the state in the past two years while acreage in field production has been stagnant or decreased slightly. The major container crops are azaleas, hollies, crape myrtles, Indian hawthorns, groundcovers and shade/flowering tree species. The number of acres in bigger container sizes is up significantly. Several woody-ornamental growers have gone out of business in the past two years. Shade tree sales are down considerably. Liner availability for expected new crop production demand is lower than needed.

Floriculture/Bedding Plants: Floriculture/bedding plants typically represent about 30 percent of Louisiana‟s nursery crop production. At the wholesale level, about 40-50 percent of bedding plant/floriculture crop sales occur in late winter and early spring. Floricultural-crop and bedding-plant production (includes poinsettias, hibiscus, garden mums, lantana, impatiens, petunias and vinca, begonias) have experienced little growth in Louisiana in the past three to five years. 2011 sales figures were slightly improved over 2011. Louisiana Super Plant production has provided significant interest some growers. Profit margins in floriculture-crop production are shrinking because of energy price increases, transportation cost, fertilizer expenses and other factors. Floriculture and bedding-plant producers need to increase taking advantage of the Louisiana Super Plant promotion and marketing program.

Foliage Plants: Foliage plant production in Louisiana has slowed. Most foliage sold at the retail level now is imported from Florida or brought in from Florida by wholesale growers and brokers. In some cases, these imports are grown in Louisiana for several months prior to wholesale sale. Interest in wholesale production of tropical plants, however, has increased recently in Louisiana. Although this category could fall into the floriculture/bedding plant category, outdoor tropical plants such as esperanza, gingers, cannas, bird of paradise, etc. have increased sales potential. Many greenhouse growers have profitable markets for these products.

Fruit/Nut Trees: Fruit/nut tree production has increased in Louisiana at the wholesale level over the last several years. Container citrus production is on the rise. Availability of container-grown, improved pecan cultivars is significantly below market demand, and opportunities to grow these cultivars for wholesale or retail sales are considerable. Also, many new fruit cultivars could be grown to increase market potential. Citrus, figs, pecans, peaches, muscadines, blueberries, apples and pears represented the vast majority of wholesale production of container-grown fruit and nut trees. LSU AgCenter fruit tree releases are popular with consumers and are under-produced in the state. Sales of fruit and nut trees and shrubs in Louisiana are significantly increasing at the retail level.

Peonies in Monroe
from Allen Owings

Can you grow peonies in Louisiana. Not really, but here is a photo sent in a number of years back with peonies growing and flowering in Monroe.

Azalea Cultural Practices and Landscape Information
from Dan Gill and Allen Owings

Azaleas are spring showoffs, even though some newer varieties now bloom in other seasons. Most of us may not realize that azaleas represent the main nursery crop grown in many states in the southeast and along the Gulf Coast. In Louisiana, they represent 7% of all nursery plants grown.

With the introduction and more common use of azaleas that bloom in other seasons, such as the increasingly popular Encore azaleas, it‟s not unusual to see azaleas blooming during the late summer, fall and winter. In south Louisiana, it is possible to have some of these multi-seasonal blooming cultivars with significant flowering for 6-8 months of the year.

No other shrub in the landscape can beat azaleas for flower power when they are in full bloom. Although the floral display may be relatively short with many of our traditional azaleas, such as the Indica azaleas, it ensures the continued popularity of this time-honored Southern shrub.

There are many factors that play a role in the success or failure of an azalea planting in a landscape. These issues include planting time, sun exposure, soil pH, bed preparation, planting techniques, irrigation, variety selection and pruning. We will briefly discuss each of the factors and provide some recommendations that are considerable applicable in our hardiness zone area (USDA hardiness zones 8 and 9).

WHEN AND WHERE TO PLANT

Azaleas can certainly be planted in the spring. This is, of course, when garden centers have the best selection and is the time of the year that gardeners see azaleas in bloom. (Did you know that many independent retail garden centers have 50% of their income for the year in the two peak months of the spring sales season?) Before purchasing azaleas, make sure you ask what the mature size of the plants you intend to buy will be. Depending on the cultivar, azaleas may mature at less than two feet up to ten feet. Don‟t purchase a type of azalea that will grow too large for the spot where it will be planted.

Spring planted azaleas may take a little longer to become established then those planted in the fall or winter. Fall and winter months would be the best time to plant. Fall and winter planting encourages root growth before spring bloom and shoot growth commences. Summer planting really should be avoided by most gardeners, although you can be successful planting at that time by providing extra care (primarily watering).

Many azalea cultivars will tolerate full sun if provided with adequate moisture. Generally, however, azaleas grow best when they receive some shade during the day. Four to six hours of morning sun provided by an eastern exposure is considered ideal. Azaleas tend to have sparse foliage, look leggy and bloom poorly when planted in too much shade. If grown in too much sun, azaleas may wilt constantly during hot, dry weather and scorch on their leaf edges. Western sun exposure during the summer months and into the early fall is very difficult on azaleas.

Azaleas require good drainage but also need an even supply of moisture. They will not thrive in a location that is constantly wet or constantly dry. Uniformity in soil moisture is important for good azalea growth and establishment in a landscape setting. Consider soil texture and soil structure of the native soil. Amending with pine bark or some other organic material will probably be needed.

HOW TO PLANT

Arrange the azaleas in the bed while they are still in their pots to get the spacing and arrangement right. When you get ready to plant and take the plant out of the pot, you may see a very dense network of roots around the outside of the root ball. This is not uncommon in container-grown plants. Use a knife to vertically cut into the root ball in several places, or use your fingers to pull apart the root ball and loosen it up. This will encourage the roots to grow out into the surrounding soil and increase the plant‟s chances of survival. Do not do this if planting in the stressful summer months.

You should always plant azaleas so that the top of the root ball is at or slightly above the soil level in the bed. Do not plant them too deep! In addition, keep in mind that azaleas are shallow rooted and benefit greatly from mulch. As soon as they are planted, mulch the bed with about 2 inches of pine straw, leaves or pine bark.

Azaleas prefer a moderately acid soil. Usually, the most ideal growth and nutrient availability occurs at a soil pH of around 5.5. If the soil in your garden is alkaline, apply ground sulfur or copperas (iron sulfate) during bed preparation according to package directions to help make the soil in the bed more acid. Don‟t guess about soil pH. Conduct a soil test. All land grant universities have soil testing labs where you can get this done. In beds where azaleas are currently growing, use copperas or a commercial soil acidifier if the pH needs to be lowered.

FERTILIZING AND PRUNING

While newly planted azaleas should not be fertilized, azaleas already growing in the landscape may be fertilized as soon as they finish flowering with a general purpose or acid loving plant food following package directions. If the leaves at the ends of the branches are yellowish-green with green veins, they need iron. Treat them with chelated iron, available in such products as Liquid Iron, and acidify the soil in their bed with copperas or a liquid soil acidifier.

As flowering finishes, evaluate your azaleas for needed pruning. April and May are good months to trim your bushes, but only do it if it is necessary. Generally, a little shaping is all that is required. Controlling size is a common reason for pruning, especially if large growing cultivars were planted where smaller ones should have been used.

You should begin to manage the size of your azaleas when they reach the maximum desirable size. Unless you are trying to create a formal clipped hedge, avoid shearing azaleas with hedge clippers as this destroys their attractive natural shape. It is better to use hand pruners to remove or shorten selected branches to achieve the desired shape and size.

First, identify the tallest or widest shoots or branches on a bush that is too large. Use your hand pruners to shorten these branches. Instead of making cut at the edge of the bush, prune the branch down within the shrub. When the shortened branch sprouts, the new growth will be inside the shrub creating a thicker fuller plant. And the new growth will not immediately stick out above the rest of the bush – something that commonly happens if pruning cuts are made just back to the edge of the bush or when azaleas are sheared. Keep cutting back the tallest and widest shoots until the shrub is the proper size. You may continue to prune occasionally as needed using this technique through the summer up until late June, early July at the very latest. After that, the chances increase that you will remove flower buds when you prune. Alternate season blooming azaleas, such as the Encores, have a shorter window or opportunity, and pruning on them should done as soon as the major spring blooming period is over.

WATERING

We have not yet mentioned much about irrigation. How much water to apply? When should plants be irrigated? How frequently? All of these are questions that are hard to provide specific answers for because natural rainfall must be factored in. Irrigation is done to maintain soil moisture when adequate rainfall is not occurring.

Supplemental irrigation is far more likely to be needed when dry spells occur during the hot summer and early fall, May to October, than during the moister, cooler winter months. When needed, enough water should be applied during irrigation to thoroughly wet about the upper 4 to 6 inches of soil. It is better to water azaleas (and other landscape shrubs) thoroughly, occasionally rather than lightly, frequently. Mulches are extremely useful in helping to maintain soil moisture.

Newly planted azaleas in their first year or two after planting require more attention to watering than established azaleas. Monitor newly planted azaleas carefully their first summer in the ground. During dry, summer weather, newly planted azaleas may need to be watered twice a week. Older established azaleas will be more resilient, but they should be thoroughly irrigated at the first sign of slight wilting.

Drip irrigation systems and soaker hoses are useful in applying sufficient water slowly over time. This allows the water to penetrate deeply into the soil. These methods also help keep the foliage dry, minimizing possible fungal problems like leaf spots. Sprinklers also work well. All methods should be used only when necessary and be left on long enough to thoroughly irrigate the planting. Hand watering usually does not provide a deep, thoroughly irrigation, and the other methods of watering are generally preferred.

Frequent, light irrigation only wets the upper part of the soil and leads to shallow root systems. Azaleas whose roots have been encouraged to grow close to the surface are more prone to drought stress than azaleas that have been watered properly. However, proper watering for a growing season or two will encourage a deeper, healthy root system and correct the situation.

Water quality is also an issue in some areas. Municipal water supplies or well water high in bicarbonates (also called alkalinity), pH and/or sodium are not ideal for azaleas. This is generally more of an issue for azaleas growing in containers than azaleas growing in beds.

PESTS
 

Azalea lace bugs are the leading pest of azaleas in the southeastern United States. They are active beginning in February and will continue to be active to varying degrees through the fall months. The lace bug attacks azalea foliage, causing it to become stippled with small white dots. Lace bugs live on the underside of the leaves, and the lower surface of the leaves will have dark brown spots. There are several generations of these pests per year, but most damage from lace bugs seems to occur from the early generations in spring. Inspect the healthy new growth of your plants regularly in late winter through mid spring. If you have had lace bugs before, you will have lace bugs again. Acephate, horticultural oils and the Bayer Advanced Garden insecticides do a good job controlling these pests.

Sustainable Landscape News Articles
from Allen Owings, Dan Gill and Kyle Huffstickler

Liriope – February 10

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/news_archive/2012/february/news_you_can_use/Liriope--a-popular-ground-cover-.htm
 

Landscapes Showing Signs of Spring - February 17

http://www.lsuagcenter.com/news_archive/2012/february/news_you_can_use/Landscapes-are-looking-like-spring.htm

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